Every man, no matter how fashionable, has to think about whether to wear a two- or three piece suit at some point.
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Between these two configurations, the designs themselves aren’t significantly different. However, they come with specific connotations that influence when and how to wear them.
What is a Three Piece Suit?
To begin, let’s define what a three piece suit is. A more traditional design with roots in military fashion, a three piece suit consists of a pair of trousers, a jacket, and a vest – also called a waistcoat. As such, if you’ve been wondering, “Can you wear a 3-piece suit as a 2-piece?”, the answer is a clear and definite “Yes.”
“The three piece, on the other hand, is generally a much more intentional style choice. It’s sleeker, a little more fitted, and more closed off than the two piece suit. By adding a matching vest to a suit, you close off your torso and draw more attention towards the neck and face. It can also be a much more imposing look as there’s less of a break between the two sides of the jacket, which can seem much more solid and rigid than a two piece suit with a contrasting shirt under the jacket.”
– James Thomson-Sakhrani | Founder | Style Standard
However, while that means you won’t have to purchase two separate suits, it’s essential to know when to don the waistcoat and when it’s too formal.
On a general level, a three piece suit should have a slim fit in the present and the jacket and trousers should match. As you’ll notice, the waistcoat has turned into a statement garment, often standing out with a different color or pattern.
Within this basic arrangement, a traditional three piece suit features a single-breasted jacket with double-notch lapels.
That’s not to say you can’t try out a double-breasted blazer or make your mark with peak labels, but especially in switching from a three- to a two-piece arrangement, the single-breasted jacket delivers the greatest degree of versatility and, for longevity, tends to be free from trends.
In short, today and in five to 10 years from now, this combination will have you ready for plenty of occasions.
Going beyond these basics, the jacket, whether slim or boxy, should be structured with a defined shoulder that lets your arms move and gives you some space around the chest.
Ideally, the jacket should button – always leave off the bottom, especially in formal situations – across the front without the appearance of straining or bagging around your midsection.
As far as the trousers are concerned, body type plays a role. While they should be neither tight nor loose, a slim-fit three piece suit tends to feature flat-front trousers, while a wider cut may involve pleats.
For the waistcoat, follow the same rules as you would for your blazer: no constricting, straightjacket feeling.
However, considering you have a button-front underneath, you shouldn’t see the shirting material between the waistcoat and your trousers.
Rather, for a clean line, the waistcoat should overlap with the top of your pants, even when you’re sitting. As a final touch, keep the vest’s bottom button undone, but unlike with your suit’s jacket, you won’t unbutton the waistcoat when sitting down.
“Ensure your vest covers your waist. This is a big one, a poorly fitting vest is incredibly obvious when a little triangle of shirt sticks out at the bottom like an arrow pointing to the ill fit above. Either your vest is too short or your pants are too low, but either way, it’s wrong.
Your vest can contrast against your suit if you want to go for a different look. While the traditional three piece suit all matches, a contrasting vest can give more texture and variety to a formal look. There’s a reason that full tails come with a contrasting vest. It’s a nice balance of formality and style that lets you get a little more expressive.”
– James Thomson-Sakhrani | Founder | Style Standard
In sticking with tradition, a navy or grey three piece suit is ready to serve as your go-to formal and cocktail garment that can easily be adapted as a two-piece ensemble for other occasions.
A black three piece suit, meanwhile, is better suited for funerals and ultra-formal, black-tie events.
Another thing is – it’s rare you’ll find a three piece suit made of linen or another warm-weather fabric. Thus, a wool or tweed three piece has you covered for most of the year.
When to Wear a Three-Piece Suit or a Two-Piece Suit
Especially as men’s suiting has taken a more casual turn as of recent, two-piece ensembles span a greater range of occasions and events.
For one, you can’t go wrong with one when you’re off to a cocktail party or networking event, and two, if you’re aiming for informally dressy, somewhat louche style, now’s your opportunity to pair this combination with a T-shirt, polo, or knit underneath and a set of sneakers.
Is a three-piece suit too formal for some occasions? It all depends upon where you’re going and what you plan to convey.
For starters, yes, a three-piece suit is too formal for a job interview, especially in today’s more smart-casual oriented workplace.
Arriving in one, especially with peak lapels, gives the impression that you’re trying to one-up your potential employer.
On the job, however, those rules change. Presentations and formal events crop up, and in striving to look your best, that waistcoat ends up giving you an edge.
Then, there’s the subject of weddings. For most of the year, a three-piece suit is considered the default men’s wedding getup. On the other hand, the rules change in summer – or if you’re planning a beach wedding.
These affairs tend to be more casual, with many opting to show up in linen or another breathable material. In turn, an unlined or partially lined two-piece suit matches the vibe and dress code.
In thinking about these occasions, a few rules govern the wear of a three-piece suit versus its two-piece counterparts:
- Always wear a tie: While ties, in general, are falling out of favor in men’s wardrobes, it appears odd at black-tie and other formal events if you arrive in a three-piece suit but forget this accessory. As a note, consider coordinating it with your pocket square, so that they pop against the suit’s grey or navy hue.
“Pair your two or three-piece suit with smart accessories, such as a tie, pocket square, complete your look with a smart and subtle pair of dress shoes. If you really want to make a statement, try the lace-up suede oxford or derby shoe in electric blue.”
– Mariam Simmons | Fashion enthusiast & Trendsetter | Alpine Swiss
- Three-Piece Suits Aren’t for Summer Wear: A true summer suit lets the skin breathe, whether you opt for linen’s wider weave, seersucker’s puckered texture, or unlined cotton. Instead, because a three-piece suit is designed more for fall through spring weather, consider a darker hue and textured material. As well, make sure it’s lined for structure and shape. Along with tweed and wool, flannel and cashmere deliver the warmth and style you seek.
- Know the rules: As three-piece suits are inextricably linked with formal occasions, keep the waistcoat buttoned but leave the last in the set undone. The jacket should be buttoned – excluding the bottom pair – whenever you stand, and unbuttoned once you sit. Additionally, you’ll have the freedom to drop the jacket in certain social situations, as long as you keep the waistcoat on.
“While a two piece suit is a common sight in formal settings, a three piece suit is a much more intentional choice. If you’re looking to fit in or go a little more casual, a two piece suit always works a treat. In a darker and plainer fabric, a two piece suit is formal. In a lighter or more complicated fabric, it can be fun.”
– James Thomson-Sakhrani | Founder | Style Standard
- As a Groomsman: Not every groom opts to wear a tuxedo; a three-piece will suffice for most affairs. For the groomsman, however, this silhouette conveys the right combination of formality and responsibility, and in turn, wearing a two-piece makes you blend in with the rest of the wedding party.
However, it’s important to remember:
“You don’t have to wait for a formal affair to don a three-piece suit. To appear stylish and yet remain somewhat casual, keep the suit color neutral and tone down the accessories. Your suit in itself is a statement piece.”
– Lisa Sanchez | Fashion Editor | The Nines
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Ivan Yaskey is a Philly-born menswear fashion blogger and copywriter. When not writing about men's style he's also an EDM and synthpop enthusiast.
