We don’t like making grand announcements here at Dapper Confidential, especially when we’re only halfway through the year. But it’s a pretty safe bet to declare that Hermès H24 is the most anticipated release of 2021.
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It’s the French luxury goods company’s first brand-new male fragrance since the award-winning Terre d’ Hermès. That 2006 release created by Jean-Claude Ellena, with its blend of orange, pepper, and vetiver, went onto become a modern classic and re-affirmed the house’s reputation for top quality.
So expectations of Hermès H24 are massive, to say the least.
Scent Notes (according to the brand)
Clary sage, narcissus, rosewood and sclarene.
Perfumer
Christine Nagel succeeded Ellena as the in-house perfumer in 2016. Her minimalist style is very much in tune with her predecessors.
Before taking on this prestigious role, she created Eau de Cartier (2001), Narciso Rodriguez For Her (2003), Miss Dior Cherie (2005), Dolce & Gabbana The One (2006), Giorgio Armani Si (2013) and Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt (2014), among others. An illustrious résumé by any standards that reflects the Swiss perfumer’s ability to strike a perfect balance between commercial and creative success.
Since 2016 she has produced standouts such as Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Twilly d’Hermès and Galop d’Hermès for the company.
Inspiration
“H24 is the first perfume expressing the contemporary man as seen by Hermès. A lively, sensual and bright perfume, stemming from the daring blend between nature and technology.” – Hermes.com
The starting point for Nagel was her admiration of the work of Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of menswear at Hermès. Both share a love of texturing of raw materials.
Nagel says: “To create this new Hermès signature fragrance, I had to open up other, less predictable paths, to move away from the conventional woodiness of men’s scents.”
Packaging & Presentation of Hermes H24
The notion of nature meeting technology is evident from the gray and lime green paper box (100% recycled and recyclable). The aerodynamically shaped glass bottle (refillable and recyclable) designed by Philippe Mouquet (he also designed the Terre d’ Hermès bottle) echoes that theme in the typically elegant Hermès style.
Personal Impressions
Herbal clary sage (essence and absolute) introduces this EDT. It’s aromatic in a big way, with grassy accents, and makes its way throughout the scent.
Narcissus can be unruly and dominant at the best of times, but in Nagel’s accomplished hands, the absolute version of this floral reveals its crisp, green, slightly bitter, tobacco-ish aspects.
Sustainably sourced from Peruvian producers, citrusy rosewood essence builds on the freshness of the narcissus absolute.
And now for the definitive (and trickiest part) of the composition – sclarene – a molecule that brings the technological part to the equation.
Metallic (in a warm and sensual way), Nagel partly chose this note due to its evocation of hot irons in Hermès sewing workshops. It’s certainly intriguing but will not be to everyone’s liking.
And perhaps that’s the point of this brave release. It’s not going to be an immediate pleaser or classic like Terre d’Hermès. In fact, it might take some time to come around to it. So best give it time to develop on your skin to appreciate all its facets.
Who Would Like It
The style-conscious man who’s looking for a new fragrance wardrobe staple that will make a statement with its difference.
Where To Wear It
It performs best in the warmer months but is versatile at the same time. Wear it from the gym to the office with ease. Parisian chic assured.
Similar Fragrances To Consider
With their metallic vibe, designer options include Prada Luna Rossa Carbon and Hugo Boss Hugo Red. Niche choices include Unum But Not Today, Nosegasm Platinum Rose and Comme des Garçons Odeur 71.
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Richard Goller is a fragrance and grooming blogger. His blog is called Fragroom. A senior editor with 20 years' experience, his blog allows him to combine two of his passions: engaging content and the always-intriguing world of fragrances. When he isn't blogging, you'll find Richard indulging in his newly found passion for balcony gardening.