Why is there so much interest in the 2023 release Dior Dioriviera EDP? Yes, it’s the latest launch from the upmarket, quality-assured La Collection Privée Christian Dior.
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But more than that, it’s the first creation from Francis Kurkdjian as the revered luxury French brand’s in-house perfumer. So not surprisingly, there’s going to be much scrutiny of this fragrance.
In this exclusive Dior Dioriviera EDP review, we take a closer look. And recommend some other best choices from the line.
Scent Notes (According to the Brand)
Fig, rose, green notes.
Perfumer
Francis Kurkdjian made a spectacular debut with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male in 1995 at the age of 26.
This was followed by numerous other high-profile scents, including:
- Elizabeth Arden Green Tea EDT (1999)
- Giorgio Armani Armani Mania EDT (2002)
- Guerlain Rose Barbare EDP (2005)
- Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier2 EDP (2005)
- Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance EDP (2006)
- Narciso Rodriguez For Him EDT (2007)
- Elie Saab Le Parfum EDP (2011)
- Carven L’Eau Intense EDT (2016)
- Burberry Mr. Burberry EDT (2016)
- Kenzo World EDP (2016)
In between, in 2009, he and former Ernst & Young associate Marc Chaya founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most popular and respected niche houses in the fragrance biz.
Under that banner, he’s notched up many more favourites such as Aqua Universalis EDT (2009), Masculin Pluriel EDT (2014), Oud Satin Mood EDP (2015), Grand Soir EDP (2016) and Gentle Fluidity Silver EDP (2019).
Oh, and you might have heard of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP (2015). The company was acquired by luxury conglomerate LVMH in 2017 and continues to impress with its undeniable quality.
In 2021, the fragrance world got very excited indeed when it was announced that the multi-award-winning Parisian would succeed François Demachy as Dior in-house perfumer.
And ever since then, there’s been much anticipation and speculation about when his first creation in the prestigious position would materialise.
PS: Dior Dioriviera EDP isn’t the first scent Francis Kurkdjian has created for the brand (also owned by LVMH). He also produced Dior Cologne Blanche EDP (2004), Dior Eau Noire EDP (2004) and Dior Homme Cologne EDT (2007).
Inspiration
“This eau de parfum composed by Francis Kurkdjian combines two concepts in one name: the south of France, his source of inspiration, and Paris, the city where Dioriviera was created.
A fragrance that conveys the love story between Christian Dior and the French Riviera, and draws inspiration from its solar beauty.
“Created as a getaway, festive and hedonistic fragrance, Dioriviera incarnates a solar state of mind and an epicurean art of living.” – brand website
Who Would Like It
Looking for a beastly banger? Move on. But if you're looking for understated French elegance, please do stay.
That said, this scent could bring you lots of compliments, as I discovered on my first day of wearing it. More importantly, you will feel very pleased with yourself for being so refined and the epitome of stealth wealth.
Where to Wear It
This is surprisingly versatile stuff. I wore it in a South African winter (colder than you might think), so imagine what this must be like in the heat.
Packaging & Presentation
La Collection Privée Christian Dior is all about classical elegance and the presentation of these fragrances captures that aesthetic perfectly.
The stately cylindrical bottle was originally designed by fashion visionary Hedi Slimane, who was the creative director of the brand’s men’s ready-to-wear division at the time of the collection’s launch in 2004. A slick magnetic cap features the instantly recognizable Dior logo.
Every juice in the collection has a different color. Dior Dioriviera EDP is softly green.
Whether you order online or in one of the Dior boutiques (we recommend the latter for the full experience), you can expect your bottle to be presented in a specially packaged box, where attention to detail is everything.
Personal Impressions
Is that fig? Yes, sirree! The note can range from the tropical to the gourmand. Here, it’s fresh, woody and unmistakably green.
If you’re familiar with the perfumer’s creations for his own eponymous brand – for example, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumière Noire Homme EDT (2009), Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la Rose EDP (2014) and Maison Francis Kurkdjian L’Homme À la Rose EDP (2020) – you’ll know he knows his way around the floral.
In Dior Dioriviera EDP, it’s not prominent but adds to the overall fruity-floral effect (yes, you can and should wear fruity-florals when executed this attractively).
As with all fragrances from the range, you’ll be paying a fair amount for it. But when you do the arithmetic and if you go for the 125ml bottle (it’s also available in 40ml and 250ml), it’s competitively priced compared to many niche equivalents.
The 2021 release Dior Eden-Roc EDP riffed on the French Riviera theme and Dior Dioriviera does that too in a clean and chic way.
Similar Fragrances to Consider
Who gives a fig? We do, actually, and that’s why we’re giving you this list of other best fig fragrances.
Let’s start with two fantastic cheapies: Berdoues Figue Blanche EDC (2016) and Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Fig EDT (2018).
You can’t talk about this fruit or the tree without mentioning three absolute classics in the genre: L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier EDT (1994, officially the first fig fragrance), Diptyque Philosykos EDT (1996) and Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi EDT (2006).
Value-for-money niche options include Molinard Figue EDP (2016), Simone Andreoli Fico Nero di Sardegna EDP Intense (2019) and Essential Parfums Fig Infusion EDP (2022).
On the pricier niche side, there’s Byredo Pulp EDP (2008), DS & Durga Debaser EDP (2015) and Le Labo Thé Matcha 26 EDP (2021).
4 Other Top La Collection Privée Christian Dior Fragrances
The line is heading for its 20th anniversary in 2024 and, contrary to popular online opinion, its quality has not gone down in recent years.
Dior Bois d’Argent EDP (2004), Dior Ambre Nuit (2009), Dior Oud Ispahan EDP (2012) and Dior Fève Délicieuse EDP (2015) get most of the attention for good reason. But don’t miss out on these other standouts, all created by François Demachy.
Dior Cuir Cannage EDP (2014)
Officially, inspired by “an immersion in the personal sphere of a woman’s handbag, where you could smell the scents of leather, lipstick, metal, candy, or paper”. However, it is, in fact, perfectly unisex.
No doubting this is a magnificent leather fragrance, but what really makes it special is how well it’s balanced with the floral (iris, jasmine) and woody (birch) aspects.
Unfortunately discontinued, but well worth looking out for online.
Dior Patchouli Impérial EDP (2018)
The barely there citrus intro – mandarin orange and bergamot – quickly gives way to the warm spice of cinnamon and coriander.
It comes into its own in the drydown. Patchouli, dusty and dark, is given extra oomph with smoke, an amber accord (featuring pronounced accents of benzoin, tonka bean and vanilla) and creamy sandalwood.
Beautifully mysterious oriental.
Dior Eden-Roc EDP (2021)
It’s inspired by the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, the legendary hotel on the French Riviera, whose guests have included Ernest Hemingway, Marc Chagall, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Madonna.
The opening is salty, airy and full of fresh citrus – a Mediterranean Sea breeze, if you will. The caresses of the sun are expressed through warm jasmine, while pine tree introduces woody aromatics to the elegant arrangement.
It’s a literal and super-posh interpretation that lingers beautifully on the skin. Do we have to check out already?
Dior Tobacolor EDP (2021)
Before he handed over the top job of Dior in-house perfumer to Francis Kurkdjian, François Demachy created several great perfumes, including Vanilla Diorama EDP, Eden-Roc EDP and Tobacolor EDP.
This release opens with fruity notes of peach and plum. There’s a hint of citrus in the background. The freshness is contrasted with the sensual warmth of tobacco, honeyed and smoky. Its sweetness is balanced with earthiness.
What a superbly sophisticated farewell from the perfumer who played such a big part in making Parfums Christian Dior the powerhouse that it is today.
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Richard Goller is a fragrance and grooming blogger. His blog is called Fragroom. A senior editor with 20 years' experience, his blog allows him to combine two of his passions: engaging content and the always-intriguing world of fragrances. When he isn't blogging, you'll find Richard indulging in his newly found passion for balcony gardening.